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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.